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Caceres

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Exploring Caceres

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Today Pedro and I decided to start the day with a hearty breakfast at the Alfonso IX. Afterwards we walked on route to the cathedral of Santa María, cathedral built in the 13th century, with a gothic style, to meet a friend of Pedro, who had organized for us to join a small tour with retired teachers. There was a bit of confusion about the starting time as Pedro understood that it started at 10, when the start time was a 11am.

So, we decided to explore other sites. The first place we visited was the centro de interpretación de la Semana Santa en Caceres – a centre to better understand the meaning of the Holy Week festivities in Caceres. It was not just this, it provided a historical context of this celebration acros the centuries in part part of Spain. It also had wonderful aljibe – or cistern; an Arab construction to collect water. According to the guide book provided to us today, cisterns are distinguished from well by their waterproof linings.

I also took Pedro to visit the Caceres Museum, which I had visited early yesterday afternoon, prior to his arrival in this town. Afterwards we joined Pedro’s friend – Angela- tour group.

We first visited ruins of a number of old Roman houses. This’s was a guided tour conducted by a senior staff member of the local council’s arts and historical department. One of the interesting facts about this visit was that this site – which was discovered relatively recently- in the 80s – sits under a bank’s parking lot. It has been very well kept and meticulously restored. This tour provided us with a very interesting overview of the lives of the Romans in this area. It remained me of my visit to the city of Bath some 30 years ago, where we could see the underground Roman baths. Similar constructions could be seen here in Caceres.

Following this visit the group continued to walk towards the Fundación Mercedes Calle – Carlos Ballesteros. Mercedes Calle was a very wealthy local woman, from a very prominent local family. On her will, she donated her family home so that a cultural foundation could be set up, to enhance the “cultural experiences of the local population”. The guide indicated that it is solely dependent of the foundation moneys as well as donations- not receiving any public funds, so according to him it is very independent. The house – palace- is majestic both in size and style. We also learnt during this visit that many of the prominent families that travelled to The Americas in its very first voyages and made their fortunes there. Today we saw a very extensive Picasso, exhibition of lithographs, which showed his changing artistic styles during his life. A most enjoyable morning indeed.

Afterwards Angela joined us for lunch, and being a local, she knew the good places for lunch. So she took us to a most wonderful restaurant- which apart from having a terrific menu, it also had a particular thing, this was that the restaurant used to be a house, so each room had a different style. Angela was a wonderful and generous host. A great long lunch with good food, event better company and great tertulia- conversation.

Afterwards, as they say when in Rome, do as the Romans. Siesta time was calling, so back to Alfonso IX for a short rest.

Following the siesta time we went to a large park, as Pedro was wanting to buy cherries. We bought 2 kgs of very tasty cherries to not only eat tonight but also for tomorrow’s trip to Cadiz.

Afterwards we visited a couple of more sites.

First is was time to go inside the cathedral of Santa María. Its main feature is its alter, which is carved in wood. I was able to enter this church and climb its bell tower free of charge- by showing my Compostela- the St James’ Pilgrim credential.

We also saw the Iglesia de San Juan, a large majestic church built between the 13th and 15th century.

Finally we went to see the Centro de interpretación “Caceres el Viejo”, the centre for the understanding of the historical town of Caceres. This place provided us with a potted history of the development of Caceres across the centuries, we were also able to climb the Torre de Bujaco. This is an Arab tower which was built in the 10th century, and is only 10 meters by 10 meters.
This tower provides a majestic view of the plaza mayor.

Today’s visit to Caceres’ buildings was not only very informative, but joining Angela’s group, made it all the more interesting as well as provided a local touch.

By now 9 pm was approaching and so time to get ready for tomorrow’s trip to Cadiz.

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Travelling from Salamanca to Caceres

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I left Salamanca this morning with the sun shining, an appropriate way to say goodbye to this golden city, which I don’t believe I have previously mentioned is how this city is know as in Spain, as a result of the particular type of stone used in all the old building – as well as in som of the new ones- where this stone with the passing of time and the sun shining on it, thurs a golden color.

The bus trip to Caceres took just on 3 hours, leaving the region of Castilla and Leon driving south towards the region of Extremadura – passing through some very picturesque areas. We crossed a number of rivers, with the most significant being the river Tajo, a main river in he Iberian peninsula.

The Extremadura region of Spain has a number of national park with a variety of both wildlife and -flora and fauna-, which attracts many tourists from around the world to this area, as a result of its natural beauty. The area is also the home of the pig which produces the delicious jamón ibérico de bellota. Its called as a result of the pig raised free range and also feed bellotas – acorn.

I arrived in Caceres at around 1 pm today. As the bus station is a bit out of the old part of the city, where the Alfonso IX hotel is situated, it took me about 30 minutes to get to my accommodation for the next 2 days. Once settled there a nice lunch was the order of the day.

Caceres is a wonderfully kept medieval town, a walled town, with many palaces and other relics of this era.

As I was ready to embark on my usual trek around the different points of interest, siesta time interfered with my plans, meaning most of this palaces or other buildings ere closed till 17.30. So a visit to the tourist bureau was required to obtain more information. The only thing open at this time was the museum of Caceres. This was a great place to know about the history of this town.

The ciudad monumental – monumental city – had its origins as a city where the Visigoths once called home. It has many narrow lanes and cobbled stones, which have been here since the 15th century or earlier.

This afternoon a visited the following sites:

1- Palacio de los Golfines de Abajo
2- Museum of Caceres
3- Plaza Santa Maria

The palacio de los Golfines, which belonged to a prominent Caceres’family, the Golfins, is a fine example of a local palace which was constructed between the 14th and 20th centuries. It has many features and treasures within its walls. Special mention must be made of its many wall hangings and documents signed but the Reyes católicos- Catholics kings, as well as the interior chapel which is very ornate.

The Caceres Museum is not only very large -spreading over 12 buildings, but also it represent the only fully intact moorish castle in this area. Of special significance is its 12th century aljibe. It also has works by Spanish painters such as Picasso, Miro and El Greco.

Whilst there are a number of plazas in the old town, The Plaza Santa Maria is one of the most attractive, as it is surrounded on all sides by lanes and also the large gothic cathedral is situated on one of its sides.

As well as walking through many of its narrow cobbled streets. As I walk on this narrow lanes, I cannot but think about who was walking here in the 15th and 16th centuries, what were they doing at that time. These cobbled stones are witnesses to so many events, both happy and happy ones.

Although it is a few days since I have officially ended my Camino adventure, I feel that today, I have doing another Camino day, as I have possibly walked quite a few kilometers in this part of town. It also somewhat feels like a Camino, as I continue to see many pilgrims, who this time are doing the Via de la Plata.

At around 18.30 I head towards to Caceres train station, as my friend Pedro, whom I met at the university of New South Wales, is now living in Spain. Pedro is joining me for a week or so in my travels around Spain. I will also spend some time with him and Sílvia- his partner in Valencia and the Mediterranean coast, earlier next week.
The train from the Atocha station in Madrid arrives on times at 19.35. We decide to arranged all the train fares for the next few days, whilst we are at the Renfe station.

Once we arrive at the Alfonso IX Hotel, we go for a short stroll around the casco viejo – old town- before adjourning to a local restaurant for a light dinner. Pedro introduced me to the taste of a “clarita””, this being beer with a bit of lemonade. This is a local drink. It actually tasted OK, although i think I might continue to opt for a beer only in the future.

After dinner we decide to walk around the casco viejo to experience this beautiful place with the night lights. a great opportunity to take some photos.

Tomorrow Pedro has organized for us to join a tour of retired teachers, who will visit two historical buildings in the morning. looking forward to this visit.