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Salamanca

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Travelling from Oviedo to Salamanca

I left Oviedo this morning on route to Salamanca around 7.30am, the weather had improved and there was no rain. The journey today took me via Leon, a city I visited in 2014 when doing the French Camino, although today’s short visit was not to old part of town, but rather to the bus station. We seem to have travelled in a crisscrossing way on the way down to the Castilian region, so the over 5 hours timeframe to reach Salamanca.

This is my first visit to this University city of some 200.000 people. Whilst there are many significant highlights in this city, its most significant buildings are its University – which is one of the oldest in Europe, founded in 1218, and its cathedral. I took a short guided city tour this afternoon, and according to the guide, the Catholic kings, Isabel and Fernando, lived here for a time, and it was in this city that Cristobal Colon, came to see them to discuss his proposed trip to the new land, prior to his 1492 trip pass the end of the earth to what we now call Latin America. Colon lived in one of the monasteries for 3 moths, whilst he negotiated with the kings.

Following a light lunch I took a self guided audio tour of both the old and new cathedrals. Yes there are two cathedrals, and you may ask why two?. Well the old cathedral was built in the 10th century and is a mixture of architectural styles. There are Gothic elements, while the cupola, the Torre del Gallo, reflects a Roman and Byzantine influence.

During the 14th and 15th centuries Salamanca not only became a centre of intellectual activity across Europe, but also grew considerable as a result of students and sometimes their families moving to this city. This meant that the old church was a not suitable both in size but also in style. The new one, a fusion of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture.

To enter the old cathedral one must first go into the new cathedral, as if one was travelling back in time. Both are architectural masterpieces in their own right. The new one is majestic and significantly larger in size and very ornate, quite clearly a lot of gold was transported from the Americas for these capillas to be built.

There are many chapels, too numerous to name all, but let me indulge you in naming one.
The San Martín Chapel is also known as the Aceite (oil) Chapel, because it was used to store the earthenware jars of oil that were used to fuel the lamps in the Cathedral. The thickness of its wall meant that during the Spanish Civil War, it was used as an air-raid shelter, and even General Franco is reputed to have sheltered here.

Another interesting fact is that the dome of the Old Cathedral is commonly known as the “Torre del Gallo” (Cockerel Tower) due to the weather vane in the shape of a cockerel on top.

An peculiar fact mentioned in the audio guide was that following the 1755 Lisbon earthquake the cathedral bell tower was seriously damaged. The bell mechanism was damaged so the bell-ringer had to climb up to the bells to ring them. This tradition continues to this day and each 31 October, someone wearing a traditional Salamanca outfit climbs the tower and plays a charrada a traditional Salamanca tune.

Another interesting note is that during restoration work in 1992 stonemasons put a little astronaut as well as an ice cream cone into the facade of the cathedral.

After the visit to the cathedral I joined a group for a 45 minutes tour across the old town in a mini train. This provided not only a general commentary – and a pocket history of Salamanca- but it also gave me good ideas of places to visit tomorrow. It was certainly worth doing this tour.

Following the short tour, I walked to one of the many university buildings. I was particularly looking to see its library, said to be one of the oldest public and university libraries in the world. As this is a research library, one can only see it through a glass enclosure. It is certainly magnificent and ornate.

I also travelled through many public parks and plazas. Talking about plazas I visited the plaza Mayor, one of the most beautiful public plazas in Spain. According to the tour guide, this plaza was built between 1729 and 1755. It is an exceptionally grand square which is widely considered to be Spain’s most beautiful central plaza. Many locals as well as tourists, not only go there to explore but also at times to meet friends. There are many restaurants and coffee shops with outside tables to enjoy the atmosphere of this beautiful Plaza Mayor.

As night was falling I visited a local restaurant to enjoy the menu del dia – menu of the day. A great way to end the day accompanied off course by a glass of sangria.

Looking forward for more exploration tomorrow.

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Enjoying the wonderful city of Salamanca in Spain

The sun was shining in Salamanca this morning, ideal weather was walking around this beautiful city, but not before having a hearty breakfast in this Pension and also arranging for the laundry to be done. After completing these two tasks, I left the Pension in search of a significant point of interest, a Roman bridge from the 1st century. This bridge is in an unbelievably good condition- it measures more than 400 meters and off course was the first bridge built in this area.

Local information indicates that the original arches are the ones closest to the city, the rest was rebuilt in the 18th C. The connection to the Camino of St James, continues in this city as all the pilgrims have crossed this bridge since time immemorial, as part of the Camino de la Plata, which starts further south in the city of Sevilla. This was also an important economic route in Roman times. Prior to the entrance to this ancient bridge we find a pre-Roman carving of a boar, apparently a sign of protection, immortalised in Lazarillo de Tormes, one of the great pieces of universal literature. I also had a stroll in the Calixto y Melibea Gardens, which is close to this bridge, an has a traditional Muslim design.

After this visit to an ancient site, I decided that staying in the past was a good thing so went to a car museum, which contains a large collection of both vintage and not so vintage cars. I will include so photos in today’s blog. I enjoyed this visit very much.

I then decided to go a bit outside out of town looking for a public library, as the wifi in the Pension was very slow. Well I did get to the library- 2 kms away, to find its door firmly shut. Enquiring with a local resident, I was told that today is Salamanca Day, a holiday, so the reason for the library being closed.

Walking back to the Casco Viejo – old town, I was rewarded in the Plaza Mayor with an array of colourfull displays as many locals were dress in traditional clothes. There was also a formal parade with all the usual dignitaries and regal pomposity on display.

Lunch today was a quick byte – vegetarian roll, it actually had tuna, but as it contained lettuce and tomato it was labeled vegetarian roll. Afterwards I visited the Real Clerecia de San Marcos, and claimed to the top of the two towers for bird’s eye view of this beautiful city, which has UNESCO World Heritage. I walked around the church bells, they are massive, and according to the brochure the main one is close to 10 tones. The buildings apart from being very large are very ornate in a Baroque style.

Afterwards I visited the Casa de las Conchas a palace built in the 14th C for a professor of the University of Salamanca, who also was a knight of the Order of St James. It is said that this was the main reason for the outside walls were decorated with the shape of shells, which is the symbol of St James. This building has a mixture of architectural styles which is also reflected in having windows in one side, of the Palace, of different shapes. Altogether another amazing building, which also demonstrates that changing times of that era.

Another stroll through the old time before stopping at a local shop, where you can buy a small packet of home made pasta and they cook it for you, adding your preferred sauce and of course with pecorino cheese. Dinner was great tonight, simple but delicious.

Will attend a string quartet free concert at the university at 8.30 tonight. Tomorrow I depart on route to the town of Caceres, and old Roman town.

Bye for now.